Ever since being fortunate enough
to travel the world with my music, my palate has
changed. The familiar English rituals, textures
and tastes have been undermined at every turn.
The inevitable consequence has been a growing obsession
with the international language of food and how
almost every choice we are being asked to make
about what we eat is laced with deadly compromises.
For example, at a restaurant, do you choose white
bread, which may be nutritionally poorer for you
than brown bread - or do you choose brown bread
which contains 5 times the amount of pesticide
residues?
Why are we expected to make that decision? At the very point we need clear advice
and leadership, we are set adrift by governments afraid to criticise such large
companies. At the same time, radical shifts in eating habits have taken place
in the last 20 years. Food that used to be considered treats, for special occasions
or one-offs, have become staples. What children's menu at a restaurant doesn't
contain chips? Whereas frosties used to be the exception in breakfast cereals,
sugar-coating has become industry standard. Standard frosties now containing
38% sugar. The unholy trinity of the cheap restaurant - the freezer, the microwave
and the deep fat fryer - has replaced the family mealtime. The industry's unholy
trinity for cheap food - sugar, salt and fat - has replaced the traditions of
locally grown, seasonal produce from grocers, markets, butchers and bakers, squeezed
out of high streets by supermarkets.
We have handed over control of what goes in to our bodies to faceless transnational
companies, operating in a geographical no-man's land. It is no surprise then
that world health is in crisis, with over-eating in the west becoming more of
a problem than under-eating. In America, children have a lower life expectancy
than their parents. And yet, the American template for modern food has long been
at the front line of its empirical ambitions: McDonalds went to russia long before
the tourists did; Starbucks has been successful in many countries previously
thought impervious to its homogenised view of coffee; the hamburger, designed
in part by a man who thought vegetables were to be avoided, is now a staple part
of so many global menus.
Wherever such huge physical and spiritual distances are involved between what
we eat and where we eat it, there are bound to be so many difficult and equally
depressing stories in between: from the early new england salt cod production
feeding sugar plantation slaves in the west indies, to the hundreds of Tesco
lorries sat in traffic jams up and down europe; from the british farmers paid
to grub orchards, to the coffee farmers of vietnam and colombia, struggling to
get by with such a devalued commodity.
It is in stories such as these, if we care to look, that we can begin to see
the hidden factor behind all of today's evils: oil. The global agriculture industry
is the biggest consumer of oil: from the power needed to run the factories, to
the manufacture of the packaging and the transportation. Now our food comes from
further away, the engines of planes and trucks bringing it spew forth the same
carbon dioxide that is warming the planet, making crop failure more likely and
altering the fundamental structure of indigenous environments on which we rely.
Norman Church has kindly agreed for us to reprint his article on the effects
of oil consumption on our food chain. To read it in full, please click here.
I am tired of having to tolerate the international language of cheap convenience
food - convenient mainly to those that make and serve it. The bright pinky orange
of farmed salmon in aeroplane trays, the branded waters 1000 times more expensive
than tap water, the dismal spread of the hotel breakfast buffet, with its pre-formed
meat slices, pasteurised juices, mechanically produced bread and nestle yoghurts
full of sugar and potassium sorbate…
This record then, aims to tell some of the hidden stories behind the overly-elaborate
and wasteful packets. It looks at what's on the menu and asks you to makes decisions
based on criteria other than taste. The album will include tracks made from a
grain of sugar, 30,000 chickens, a salmon farm, the sewers below London and water.
Plat du Jour has been researched for 18 months with the help
of Polly Russell from the British Library and numerous other helpful
specialists and authorities.
For the live performance of such a project, the emphasis must shift away from
the attempt to tell some of these ambiguous and complex stories in literal ways,
and instead aim to enliven the music in ways that allude directly or indirectly
to the friction within the food itself. On stage we will be bringing a chef with
us who will be attempting to alter mood and enhance the music with smells. There
will also be a drummer playing a drum kit made only from items brought from Tesco,
Britain's biggest supermarket. There will be three renowned jazz musicians -
Dave O'Higgins, Pete Wraight and Phil Parnell - capturing live samples and triggering
them though midi controllers. Finally I will be attempting to bring it all together
sonically, technically and hopefully musically. There will be visuals presented
by fine artist Lenka Clayton, who has attempted to interpret the process by which
I have created the music, rather than simply document it. My aim is for the music
to be the document, rather than relying on images as is so often the case; the
music will be something akin to documentary fiction. The images we will use therefore
will examine our peculiar relationship with food, rather than creating a visual
document of the factual or scientific basis for the project. It is after all,
an artistic performance.
The structure of the live shows and the way it will tour will have at its core
the same principles of the record. We will ask local promoters to source local
food producers to create a small market before and after the show. It will also
require a committed absence of pre-packaged and processed food from the backstage
area. No more cheap sandwiches, crisps or cans of coke.
Another way is possible. We just need to know the recipe.
